Open a fine dining menu today and you'll find grains most Americans have never heard of. Farro appears in salads and side dishes. Freekeh gets served with roasted vegetables. Einkorn flour shows up in breads and pastas.
These ancient grains—varieties that havent been significantly modified through selective breeding—are changing how chefs think about the foundation of dishes that traditionally relied on wheat.
What makes grains ancient
The term ancient grains refers to grains and pseudocereals that have remained largely unchanged over several hundred years. They contrast with modern wheat, which has been extensively bred for higher yields, easier processing, and better baking characteristics.
Common ancient grains include spelt, kamut, farro, einkorn, emmer, freekeh, teff, amaranth, quinoa, and millet. Each has unique nutritional profiles, flavors, and culinary applications.
Modern wheat breeding focused on creating grains that produce light, fluffy breads and neutral-tasting products. Ancient grains were never bred for these characteristics, so they retain more robust flavors, denser textures, and different nutritional compositions.
The flavor advantage
Ancient grains taste distinctly different from modern wheat. Farro has a nutty, slightly sweet flavor with a pleasantly chewy texture. Freekeh, which is green wheat thats been roasted, has a smoky, earthy taste. Einkorn wheat produces flour with a rich, complex flavor that makes modern wheat taste bland by comparison.
These pronounced flavors change how dishes work. You cant simply substitute ancient grains for modern wheat and expect the same results. The grain becomes a featured ingredient rather than a neutral base.
Chefs appreciate this. Instead of grains serving as bland filler, they contribute distinctive character. A farro salad tastes notably different from a bulgur salad, giving chefs more tools for creating variety in grain-based dishes.
Nutritional considerations
Many ancient grains offer better nutritional profiles than modern wheat. They often contain higher levels of protein, fiber, vitamins, and minerals. Some have lower gluten content, though few are truly gluten-free.
The bran and germ are typically intact in ancient grains, preserving nutrients that are lost when wheat is refined into white flour. This makes them more satisfying and nutritionally dense.
However, nutrition isnt the primary reason chefs choose ancient grains. Flavor and texture drive menu decisions. The nutritional benefits are a bonus that helps justify higher costs and makes dishes more appealing to health-conscious diners.
How chefs are using ancient grains
Different ancient grains suit different applications. Farro works well in salads and side dishes, where its chewy texture and nutty flavor shine. Its cooked similarly to rice—simmered in liquid until tender but still slightly firm.
Freekeh has become popular in Middle Eastern-inspired dishes. Its smoky flavor pairs well with roasted vegetables, lamb, and bold spices. Chefs use it like bulgur or couscous, as a base for composed plates or mixed into grain bowls.
Einkorn and emmer flours are showing up in pasta and bread programs. They require different handling than modern wheat flour—less mixing, different hydration—but produce pastas and breads with deeper, more interesting flavors.
Teff, a tiny grain from Ethiopia, gets used in both sweet and savory applications. Its the traditional base for injera, the spongy Ethiopian flatbread, but chefs also use teff flour in baking and as a thickener for sauces.
The sourcing challenge
Ancient grains cost more than commodity wheat. They yield less per acre, require more careful processing, and come from smaller-scale producers. This affects menu pricing and limits how broadly restaurants can incorporate them.
Finding consistent supply presents challenges too. Many ancient grains come from specific regions or small farms. A restaurant building a signature dish around a particular grain needs reliable sourcing, which can be difficult.
Some restaurants address this by working directly with farmers, contracting for specific amounts of grain each season. This creates stability for both parties but requires advance planning and financial commitment.
The sustainability angle
Many ancient grains require fewer agricultural inputs than modern wheat. Theyre often more disease-resistant, need less fertilizer, and can thrive in marginal soils where modern wheat struggles.
Some varieties have deeper root systems that prevent erosion and build soil health. Others are naturally adapted to dry conditions, requiring less irrigation than thirsty modern wheat.
These environmental benefits appeal to restaurants focused on sustainability. Serving ancient grains becomes part of a broader commitment to supporting agricultural practices that regenerate rather than deplete.
Consumer education remains necessary
Despite growing popularity in restaurants, many diners remain unfamiliar with ancient grains. Servers need to explain what farro is, how to pronounce quinoa, and why the grains are worth the premium price.
This educational aspect can enhance the dining experience. People enjoy learning about unfamiliar ingredients, especially when they taste good. But it requires staff training and clear menu descriptions.
Some restaurants provide context on menus, briefly explaining the grain and its origins. Others let servers tell the story verbally, creating opportunities for engagement.
The future of grains in fine dining
Ancient grains have moved beyond trend status. They're now established ingredients in the contemporary chef's pantry, alongside modern wheat rather than replacing it entirely.
The movement has encouraged grain diversity generally. Chefs experiment with regional grain varieties, heirloom wheats, and specialty rices, all seeking distinctive flavors and textures that commodity grains cant provide.
This diversification benefits agriculture by creating markets for crop varieties that were nearly extinct. It benefits diners by expanding the range of flavors and textures available. And it benefits chefs by giving them more tools for creating interesting, delicious food.
As we move through 2025, expect ancient grains to become even more common on restaurant menus. The initial novelty has worn off, but the culinary advantages remain. Thats the mark of an ingredient with staying power—when the trend fades but the ingredient persists because it genuinely improves the food.
